" Trump is an increasingly symbolic figure — Norma Desmond with the nuclear codes and sycophantic butlers in his ears on a West Wing Sunset Boulevard soundstage."
a book about glam rock and art pop - 1970s mostly - but also tracking its echoes and reflections through the 80s, 90s and into the 21st Century - footnotes to follow here soon
Thursday, September 26, 2024
attention and submission
Because he was never properly loved, he requires attention and submission,” Mary Trump, the president’s niece and a fierce critic of his, told me. “He requires not ever being contradicted.”
secret thesis
secret thesis is that the clothes / style has aged far worse than the sonics
bowie looks shit as often as looks exquisite
roxy look tatty
the covers are embarrassing
my agenda double - fold
to argue for what no one talks about when talking about glam, which is the music - to argue that there was a distinctive, if loose, sonic aesthetic - and set of sonic advances, or at least steps taken
but also to argue, in the context of all rock, image appearance gesture performance spectacle is
"everything is glam rock"
and even the performance of non-performance is a kind of performance
- naturalistic acting in cinema, method, kitsch sink etc - casting of non-professionals
bowie looks shit as often as looks exquisite
roxy look tatty
the covers are embarrassing
my agenda double - fold
to argue for what no one talks about when talking about glam, which is the music - to argue that there was a distinctive, if loose, sonic aesthetic - and set of sonic advances, or at least steps taken
but also to argue, in the context of all rock, image appearance gesture performance spectacle is
"everything is glam rock"
and even the performance of non-performance is a kind of performance
- naturalistic acting in cinema, method, kitsch sink etc - casting of non-professionals
Illusion and disillusion
two interviews
1) What’s glam exactly?
You said its origin must be found in
Oscar Wilde.
My book is about glam
rock primarily, a 1970s phenomenon, rather than about “glam” or “glamour” in
some more general sense. So on a really basic level of definition, what I’m
looking at this historical phenomenon of glam rock as it was understood and written
about at the time: a cluster of mostly British artists who emerged around
1971-72 and dominated UK pop culture for several years, then faded from the
scene (or mutated) shortly before punk. So Bowie, T. Rex, Sweet, Slade, Roxy
Music, Cockney Rebel, Mott the Hoople, many more. Glam rock also had exponents
in America – Alice Cooper, New York Dolls, Lou Reed, Sparks, a few others. And
there were certain US cities where the “glam vibe” was strong, like New York
and Los Angeles, either through the local scene of bands, or through the strong
reception for visiting English groups. But in the final part of the book I’m
also looking at the legacy and “aftershocks” of glam as they reverberate
through the Eighties, Nineties and into the 21st Century, ranging from the New
Romantics and artists like Morrissey and Prince, through hair metal and Marilyn
Manson, and onto the echoes of glam in Lady Gaga and – surprisingly – in
certain rap performers.
There’s a certain core
“glam rock sound” - cleanly articulated
riffs, stomping beats, an atmosphere of high-pitched vocal hysteria – but
really glam rock as a genre coheres on the visual level: the clothes and
make-up and outrageous hair styles, the spirit on male flamboyance and campy
androgyny, the emphasis on theatricality
and showbiz spectacle. But the glamour
in glam rock is not straightforward glamour in the way that Grace Kelly or
Marilyn Monroe or Marlene Dietrich were glamorous. Or indeed Hollywood red
carpet Academy Awards kind of glamour today, which to me is a form of
retro-glamour. Glam rock’s “glamour” was
deliberately excessive and absurdist, to the point of being a travesty or
parody of glamour. If you look at New York Dolls, they don’t look immaculate or
elegant in a Hollywood way, or even in a Diana Ross type of way. Their clothes
and hair are a chaos of signifiers and trashy imagery drawn from all of the
place. The same applies in a different way with early Roxy Music – there’s a
wrongness, a cartoon quality. By the time you get to the pure teenpop glam of
Sweet, Slade and Gary Glitter, the vibe is lumpen and ridiculous. Bowie is the most exquisite and elegant of
the glam rock stars, but even he is not really pursuing Hollywood glamour –
he’s too alien and excessive, at times verging on ugliness.
In the book I look at
some of the deep cultural roots for glam as a philosophy, and Oscar Wilde is
definitely one of the first writers and thinkers to articulate the idea that
artifice is more interesting – and ultimately more revealing – than naturalism.
He has a series of brilliantly witty and challenging aphorisms that overturn
common sense ideas – for instance, he asserts that sincerity is a pose, and a
boring one. His critical essays like “The Decay of Lying” and his
manifesto-disguised-as-a-novel The Picture of Dorian Gray lay out a view of
life that rejects ethics entirely in favour of aesthetics: all that matters is
the fascination of surfaces, the magical charm of physical beauty and
charismatic presence. Wilde believes in a natural aristocracy of the beautiful
over the plain. It’s camp turned into a
philosophy, basically: a view of the world and of life as theatre, in which we
are constantly performing, constantly inventing ourselves as the personae we
wish to appear to be.
2) Glam Rock has changed the way to do music
by giving space to imagination, disguises,
colours, ambiguities, gender ambiguities as well, after the ‘70s there was definitely a revolution on this
regards
Glam rock marked a shift
from the revolution talk of the Sixties, when people believed the world would
be changed through the power of youth coming together as a collective force.
With glam, the emphasis shifts to individual transformation – escaping your
allotted social role or your fated physical identity, through reinventing yourself. In a sense It’s about a private revolution:
experimentation with gender and sexuality, becoming the person you want to be,
the power of fantasy. You don’t change your material circumstances, but you
escape them momentarily through posing in the club or dressing up when you go
to see your heroes play concerts. And you also escape through the dream-worlds
conjured by music. And if you’re star,
you can escape completely just through achieving the superstar lifestyle.
If pressed to distil glam to a core, I would say it is about: Illusion and Disillusion
In some ways glam is a
retreat from the ambitions and hopes of the Sixties, there is an undercurrent
of disillusionment and despair. But in other ways it finds different zones for
radicalism – above all with the games with sexual identity.
3) The name
of David Bowie stands out among
many and great artists, why, in your opinion, Bowie was so important ?
That’s too big a
question – it would take a book to answer it. And in fact, it has taken a book
– or a third of the very long book I’ve written!
Bowie ended up being the
spine of Shock and Awe - but not really
intentionally. In fact my original
intent was really to put Bowie in his place – to contextualize him as one
artist in a whole field of glam and glitter endeavor, in which forgotten
figures like Alice Cooper, Sparks or Steve Harley of Cockney Rebel were given
their due. But writing the book, Bowie proved to be too insistently interesting
not to cover in great detail and repeatedly through the book. He did so much
and went through so many changes.
If you were to point to
just one thing of the many important aspects of Bowie, it would be the
changeability – the way he kept transforming his identity over and over. He
created a whole new model for rock star’s career, where you completely reinvent
yourself repeatedly, jumping to a new style and a new sound. Before Bowie, rock
artists were supposed to evolve gradually, organically – a Neil Young or Joni
Mitchell model of artistic development.
Bowie taught fans and critics to see inconsistency as a positive - as cool and brave, rather than a sign of a
lack of integrity or artistic substance. By the Eighties with postpunk and new
pop artists, it became much more common for groups to change their sound and
their image with each album. These were the children of Bowie.
4) Bowie was known because he never took up any political stance, which he did till the end of his life. Why?
Well, that’s not
entirely true, because he did make political statements in the mid-Seventies –
a whole spate of comments in interviews that were in favor of authoritarianism,
in which he talked about the need for a strong leader to take control and
“clean things up” – meaning the liberalism and permissive morals of the
Seventies. That is what is so disconcerting about Bowie: we generally expect rock people to be on the
left politically, especially if they have progressive ideas about sexuality and
gender roles. But the only really explicit political stances that Bowie ever
made were right-wing – and these verged on flirting with fascism. I think there
is just one interview in the late Nineties where he talks about having
basically socialist ideas, but it doesn’t very convincing! For the most part,
throughout his entire career Bowie either avoids politics or he makes a series
of unwholesome, troubling comments on the lines of “what we need in the UK /
the West is a strong leader” and even “I would make a good dictator myself”.
Obviously some of this is the cocaine speaking – coke tends to make people feel
in command and large amounts of it can cause megalomania and delusions of
grandeur. But long before Bowie got into cocaine, there is a 1969 comment about
how Britain needs a strong leader! So there’s definitely a recurrent tendency,
which I think relates to his reading of Nietzsche, his interest in the idea of heroism and the
superman, and an aristocratic impulse (which I think is actually the essence of
glam). Bowie’s core essential politics
are individualism and an intense work ethic, a drive to perfectionism and
self-improvement. I think mixed in there
is a disbelief in the idea of equality and a misanthropic feeling about the
human race. It’s the Individual Versus the Crowd.
These kind of feelings
about the common mass of humanity are very adolescent, which is why “Life On
Mars?” is such a great song about teenage alienation – you get that feeling
from the line about “the mice in their million hordes / from Ibiza to the
Norfolk Broads”. That’s not about mice,
that’s about ordinary people: English working class tourists swarming
everywhere. It’s a typically adolescent contemptuous view of humanity as vermin
– too many stupid people breeding. The
idea of some kind of catastrophe that thins out the population is attractive to
a certain kind of teenager.
5) Does the glam culture still exist nowadays
and who represents it? Does it still
symbobolizes / expresses that change of the early times?
You could see one of
glam’s legacies in queer performers like Perfume Genius and Mykki Blanco. But
the lineage that I track in Polvere di Stelle is more mainstream – pop
superstars like Lady Gaga and Ke$ha, rap and R&B goddesses like Beyonce and
Nicki Minaj, rap rulers like Drake and Kanye West. Many of glam’s themes and traits resurfaced
in the 21st Century in the songs, images and career strategies of these
artists– the cultivation of alter-ego
personae, an obsession with fame and the dark side of stardom, a sense of
narcissistic personality disorder and apathologically compulsive exhibitionism,
an aura of decadence and excess. Gaga and Ke$ha explicitly identified with glam
ancestors (Bowie for Gaga, Bolan for Kesha) and used glam imagery (outlandish
make-up for the former, glitter for the latter). Drake and Kanye West’s entire body of work is
concerned with fame and the confusion and psychic damage that comes with it.
Nicki Minaj has about 14 separate personae and Beyonce created the Sasha Fierce
alter-ego. You ave Taylor Swift with her 2017 song/video “Look What You Made Me
Do” in which she kills off the old Taylor Swift persona and then parades at the
end of the video all her earlier images and identities. Her entire album
Reputation is a meta-pop essay about her public self. In that sense it’s like
the sequel to Britney Spears’s Blackout, which was about her fame spiraling out
of control, although it also recalls Prince’s “Controversy” too. For me the self-reflexive nature of modern
pop stardom is pure glam. It harks back to David Bowie’s “Fame” and the dozens
of other glam songs about being a rock idol or living the rock’n’roll fantasy
lifestyle.
6) The
glam rock world lost many of its
members in the last few years, I mean, Prince and obviously DB. How did you personally react to these losses, especially Bowie’s death?
I was saddened by both.
Prince more so because I had grown up with his music in real-time and can
remember buying his early records when he wasn’t that well known in the UK and
then watching him getting huger and huger. Eventually as a young music
journalist I would write about albums like Sign O The Times and Lovesexy as
they came out.
Bowie’s prime period in
the Seventies was when I was a child, before I bought records or read the music
press. So it was something I caught up with later, as Mythical Rock History.
And Bowie was almost too large a figure to seem real as a human being. When I
grew up he was this pop institution on the same level as The Beatles. His
singles were played as golden oldies on the radio. The first Bowie album I
really was aware of a real-time release was Lodger in 1979, and Scary Monsters
was the first one I heard all the way through the month of its release.
Through researching
Bowie for the book, it created a weird effect of intimacy and distance at the
same time. On the one hand, I felt like I really understood him and his
motivations, and even identified to some extent – we were both products of
middle class English suburbia, filling up our emptiness with a ravenous diet of
cultural stimuli, from music and cinema to books and art. But at the same time,
through approaching his work and his time as a historian, I achieved a
distanced objective relationship. So I wasn’t that stunned when he died,
especially as I’d known about him being sick for a while. When it came to
writing the final essay on his life and his death, I approached it as eulogy
for a funeral – something you write for the audience as much as for yourself. I
found myself moved by other people’s reactions to the death, and also by
snippets of information I’d never seen before that humanized Bowie.
1- There were so many musicians wearing make up and androgynous
costumes in the early 70s. Why do you think that Bowie stands out among
everyone else who helped to shape the glam era?
Well, one way Bowie stands out is that he was actually really good
at applying make-up and really creative with it. Most glam rockers would slap
on lipstick and eye-shadow in a clumsy way, or they would just put a bit of
glitter on their cheekbones. But Bowie studied with the master cosmetologist
Pierre LaRoche and he became an expert on make-up techniques. In researching Shock
And Awe, I came across a piece in Creem magazine – the
American rock paper that most supported glam and glitter artists – in which
Bowie offers the readers his “Makeup Do’s and Don’ts’. He describes in great
detail how he gets a nice shine on his lips and eyelids, or smudges kohl along
the eye-line, and how he created the iconic gold circle on his forehead
circa Aladdin Sane. Bowie applied a similar sense of taste and
experiment to his clothing choices, wearing flamboyantly avant-garde outfits
made by designers like Kansai Yamamoto. So
I would say that Bowie was exquisite looking in a way that most other glam
rockers weren’t. Slade and Sweet and New York Dolls tended to look more like a
parody or travesty of “glamour” rather than the actual real thing. Bowie looked
weird, but also elegant. His only rivals in that area were Roxy Music, who
combined being stylish with being strange.
2- Everyone has tried to push the boundaries in pop culture during
the last 50 years, but no one (not Madonna, not Lady Gaga) has gone further
than Bowie in terms of challenging aesthetics. Why is he still such a big
influence nowadays for so many other artists?
I don’t think Bowie has ever stopped being
influential, except for a period in the Nineties when grunge and alternative
rock were dominant. In the Nineties I would say Neil Young was the admired
elder rocker, someone who stuck to his guns and represented this kind of gnarly
outsider image – old Neil was the role model for young groups like Pearl Jam.
In the Nineties there weren’t many artists who took their cues from Bowie –
there was Suede in the U.K., and perhaps Marilyn Manson. But all through the
Seventies, the Eighties, and most of the 21stCentury Bowie was
hugely influential. In the Eighties you had one set of British groups inspired
by his Young Americans funk-and-soul sound and wedge haircut
look (ABC, Spandau Ballet, et al) and another set who were influenced by his
Berlin sound circa Low – Gary Numan, The Associates, Magazine,
Visage, Simple Minds. So much of what happened in the Eighties with video
pop, with movements like the New Romantics, and with style magazines like The
Face and iD owed a huge amount to Bowie. In terms of
the present, what seems to resonate with recent pop musicians is the idea of
self-reinvention - the fact that you can change your persona, change your
sound, over and over again. This idea of identity-fluidity seems to
strike a chord with how people feel today - that the self is infinitely
malleable and adaptable, not just artistically but existentially and
psychologically.
3- Which of his artistic personas along the years do you find more
interesting and why?
My favorite period of music is the
stretch from Low through “Heroes” and Lodger to Scary
Monsters – that’s when he’s really at the cutting edge of pop music,
making music that is innovative but also beautiful and often emotionally
intense. And I like that sort of outsider, exile-in-Berlin persona that he had
then. In terms of an era of Bowie that I find most intriguing, though, in some
ways it’s 1967 and his debut album, when he’s completely out of step with
what’s going on in rock. Bowie is making comedy-pop influenced by Anthony
Newley and other English music hall artists, at exactly the point when rock is
becoming the major art form of the era. Sgt Pepper’s and
albums by Pink Floyd, The Doors, Cream, Byrds, Jefferson Airplane, et al are
all pushing rock into new zones of musical expansion and lyrical expression.
But Bowie is more interested in the previous generation’s
forms of entertainment – the musical, cabaret, variety, mime. I find this oddly
glorious, and it helps that Bowie’s debut album is really charming and
incredibly English. It was z completely flop at the time, but I prefer
listening to it than his next two albums, which are unconvincing attempts to go
with the rock fashions of the time. Then with Hunky Dory, I think
he finds his true musical voice again – and that voice isn’t really rock, it’s
a kind of piano-centred, lushly orchestrated sound with searching lyrics: what
I describe in the book as “existentialist Elton John”.
Mark's glam
off cut from
Ripley's trajectory is uncannily in sync with that of Bryan Ferry. Roxy Music and For Your Pleasure, those exercises in learning and unlearning of accent and manners, are Pop's equivalent of The Talented Mr Ripley. The clothes , the bearing and the voice are faked, but not yet perfectly. The roots still show, and the painful drama of becoming something you are not still carries an existential charge. Stranded and the subsequent albums, meanwhile, are the equivalent of the later novels; here, success is assumed, and the threats to the tasteful but banal idyll come from ennui, a certain unease with contentment, and – most ominous of all – the danger of the past returning. The vapid bucolia of Roxy’s Avalon – recorded when Ferry was himself married to an heiress and living on a country estate would be the perfect soundtrack to Ripley puttering around in his Harpers and Queens dream home, Belle Ombre, with his wife, Heloise.
The first step to Ripley’s becoming a Something turns out to be his vampirising of the identity of Dickie Greenleaf....
.... The pivotal moment of the novel comes when Ripley is no longer capable of sustaining his fantasy identification with Dickie. When Tom looks into Dickie's eyes and sees not the windows of a soul with which he can identify but the dead, glassy surface of an inert and idiotic dummy, he falls (back) into a deep existential nausea and vertigo, experiencing a moment of profound cosmic loathing and miserable dislocation....
And likewise, although we might like to emphasise the collectivity and cooperative element to blogging, what with being on the left and all, it was also — let’s be honest — a competitive space too. The blogging world was fuelled in part by competitive drives, by ego. And Mark was competitive, he wanted to excel, to flex his gifts — to come up with a better take than anyone else on whatever it was he was moved to write about. Mark’s ideas were very important, but he was also a pure writer in a way that an athlete is a pure athlete — in love with style, with the pacing and drama of a piece of prose.
That side of him — the Nietzschean aristocratic impulse and style — is what fed into his particular glam aesthetic, and which he had to go through great contortions to reconcile with anonymous collectivity Kommunistic swarm-logic, because glam and socialism are irreconcilable — one is the opposite of the other. (But that’s a side-argument, and possibly an interminable one.)
I learned recently that one of Mark's planned future projects was a book about glam. As with Retromania coming out a few years before Ghosts, I pipped him to the post and came up with a reading of it that would have jarred with his own i think, he would have disliked the empiricism and wide-trawling approach of Shock and Awe.
His ideas about glam were based on a very select group of examples, as opposed to the historical reality of it (he would probably have said he was precisely interested in the antihistorical unreality of it - its hyperstitional potential rather its messy actuality. That select group would be Roxy Music... second-wave figures Japan, Grace Jones, Siouxsie, Steve Strange... and then bizarrely, a modern inheritor (which i cannot see) Roisin Murphy .. fellow travelers like Helmut Newton
I don't think he was even that keen on Bowie... I suspect he would have had little time for Bolan, or Sparks, or Cockney Rebel, or New York Dolls, or Alice Cooper .... all the bubblegum stuff like Glitter, Sweet, similarly... And Slade would have been anathema
This is a good example of Mark's approach - the blog essay Ripley's Glam
Very interesting reading - the comparison between Tom Ripley and Bryan Ferry seems convincing, and redounds to Ferry's discredit (and underlines how reactionary a figure the actual real-world Ferry became - as opposed to the Ferry of his music-image, although that quickly became conservative too I think)
cf Eno, the figure who renounced glam very quickly, started dressing down, and was a strong defender of Corbynism and long-term ecological thinkingSnippets from Mark's piece
"He hated becoming Thomas Ripley again, hated being nobody, hated putting on his old set of habits again, and feeling that people looked down on him and were bored with him unless he put on an act for them like a clown, feeling incompetent and incapable of doing anything with himself except entertaining people for minutes at a time.
"He hated becoming Thomas Ripley again, hated being nobody, hated putting on his old set of habits again, and feeling that people looked down on him and were bored with him unless he put on an act for them like a clown, feeling incompetent and incapable of doing anything with himself except entertaining people for minutes at a time.
We can learn a great deal about the Glam impulse from these lines from The Talented Mr Ripley.....
Ripley's trajectory is uncannily in sync with that of Bryan Ferry. Roxy Music and For Your Pleasure, those exercises in learning and unlearning of accent and manners, are Pop's equivalent of The Talented Mr Ripley. The clothes , the bearing and the voice are faked, but not yet perfectly. The roots still show, and the painful drama of becoming something you are not still carries an existential charge. Stranded and the subsequent albums, meanwhile, are the equivalent of the later novels; here, success is assumed, and the threats to the tasteful but banal idyll come from ennui, a certain unease with contentment, and – most ominous of all – the danger of the past returning. The vapid bucolia of Roxy’s Avalon – recorded when Ferry was himself married to an heiress and living on a country estate would be the perfect soundtrack to Ripley puttering around in his Harpers and Queens dream home, Belle Ombre, with his wife, Heloise.
The first step to Ripley’s becoming a Something turns out to be his vampirising of the identity of Dickie Greenleaf....
By taking the place of Dickie, Ripley can escape the pain, anxiety and awkwardness of being himself, a self. To become an Object = to be relieved of the pressures of subjectivity, untroubled by any interiority - isn't this one of central fantasies of Glam?
.... The pivotal moment of the novel comes when Ripley is no longer capable of sustaining his fantasy identification with Dickie. When Tom looks into Dickie's eyes and sees not the windows of a soul with which he can identify but the dead, glassy surface of an inert and idiotic dummy, he falls (back) into a deep existential nausea and vertigo, experiencing a moment of profound cosmic loathing and miserable dislocation....
Shulamith Firestone - “Sex objects are beautiful. An attack on them can be confused with an attack on beauty itself. Feminists need not get so pious in their efforts that they feel they must flatly deny the beauty of the face on the cover of Vogue. For this is not the point. The real question is: is the face beautiful in a human way – does it allow for growth and flux and decay, does it express negative as well as positive emotions, does it fall apart without artificial props – or does it falsely imitate the very different beauty of an inanimate object, like wood trying to be metal”
zok zong
"A Cantonese term, used to describe something uneccessarily performative - like an actor who's perceptibly self-conscious about their onstage presence" - Joshua Minsoo Kim, The Wire, writing about extended voice artist Charmaine Lee
wintertime for Hitler (anti-theatricality 6 of ??)
" Trump is an increasingly symbolic figure — Norma Desmond with the nuclear codes and sycophantic butlers in his ears on a West Wing ...